Step 2 of My Makeup Process: Face, Part A – Foundation
My guide to finding the best foundation for you
Finding the right foundation for you can be a completely overwhelming process. Endless, even—there are so many brands and a seemingly ever-expanding range of formula types. All of this confusion is made so much worse by the shopping experience created by the mega cosmetics shops. If you know me you know I’m not allowed into a Sephora unaccompanied (the rule is self imposed, but I try to not break it… ever). I’m like a kid in a candy store, which is made significantly worse by the exciting lights, pumping music, and row after row of cosmetics that have been magically transformed into some type of sugary delight I simply must have. Hence, the chaperone—you know, to keep me on target and make sure I come out with only what I went in for… with the exception of super cute samples of course.
So, to make finding the right foundation formula easier and less overwhelming (in case you’re like me, or if you just don’t know where to start) I thought we’d have a crash course on what’s out there, with some highlights of each type to help you find the right one for you. Consider this letter your virtual chaperone!
Foundation touch-ups on set last week.
IN THE CHAIR
Behind the scenes techniques to enhance your makeup routine
If you missed Step 1: Skincare last week, make sure to read that first—it’s important for the health of your skin and for getting the best foundation application. The investment you make in your skincare will show through your foundation for an extra special glow you can’t get with makeup alone.
Step 2: Face, Part A – Foundation
Foundation is just that: the rock upon which the rest of your makeup is built. If you have time for only one makeup step, invest it in making your skin look as perfect as you can. Foundation is that extra polish that will help you feel dressed up even when you aren’t.
Tinted Moisturizer
If you’re a Sporty Spice, on-the-go kind of girl, this formula is for you. I love a tinted moisturizer for an “off-duty” look. While you can “cut” any liquid foundation with moisturizer by mixing the two together in your hand before applying, buying a ready-made, multi-purpose formula like this is a great way to add speed and a slew of skincare benefits, including sunscreen, in one step.
Medium Coverage
To me, this is the workhorse formula—it’s what I use most often at work. A good medium-coverage foundation is something that’s buildable, meaning you can add extra layers of it to build opacity. Build coverage by applying foundation with a tightly packed domed makeup brush like the It Cosmetics Heavenly Luxe Complexion Perfection Brush. Make sure to go over areas where you’d like more coverage a couple of times.
If you’d prefer instead to lighten a medium-coverage formula, mix it with your favorite moisturizer! Apply it with a wet sponge, like a Beauty Blender, for a sheer wash of color.
Full Coverage
Full-coverage foundation is what it says it is—it’s a formulation designed to cover the skin so that what’s beneath is no longer visible. Consequently, it provides a very polished, “makeup” look, and is great for covering veins, freckles, redness, or any other type of discoloration that the wearer doesn’t want to show. All that said, it can be too heavy for daytime, in-person use (meaning not on a photo shoot or on stage with bright lights). To avoid a “stage look” at noon, make sure to buff the foundation into the skin with a flat-top brush like Chantecaille’s Buff & Blur Brush.
Cushion
Cushion foundation is generally a sheer formula with many skincare benefits included. It comes in a compact and is usually applied with an included sponge or “cushion.” I love their portability—they are great for a handbag/touchup kit/pocket/whatever. It’s also nice to not have to carry a brush around; everything is happily self contained. Just make sure to replace the included cushion regularly with a new sponge!
Stick Foundation
I have a deep and abiding love for stick foundations. Unfortunately, people don’t “get” them so they are often discontinued. (It’s so sad when that happens, but I’ve had to get used to it.) Don’t be nervous—they are really versatile and like the cushion they can be applied without the help of an extra brush or sponge. Additionally, they are great as concealers over another type of foundation or even as contour/highlight. Westman Atelier makes a beautiful stick—try it out!
Powder Foundation
I know it seems old school, but powder foundations are unmatched for certain purposes including hiding acne or redness. I love powder foundation on top of another formula, right where you need to build coverage. Regular translucent powder, which is colorless and used for setting other types of foundation, can sometimes remover a layer of foundation, exposing bits you’d rather not. Powder foundation, on the other hand, eliminates this issue by both setting anything underneath and depositing an extra layer of color. It covers and self-sets in one for a flawless finish.
As a final note, don’t be afraid to mix it up! You don’t need to stick with one type of foundation for everything—I love to change it up depending on the season, climate, or even the amount of time I have to do my makeup. Life hack: It’s worth it to have one type that requires a brush for home, plus a portable option for your handbag. For most ladies, I’d say to get a medium coverage foundation as well as a stick—the medium coverage for a natural you (but better), and the stick for on-the-run touch-ups. After all, you never know who you’ll meet or what you’ll get up to, so be a good Girl Scout and be prepared for whatever life throws at you!
Next week, we’ll have a special fashion-week edition of Vanities. After that, we’ll return to our regularly scheduled programming with Step 2, Part B: Concealer!
FROM THE KIT
The products and trends worth knowing about now
My Favorite Foundations
Tinted Moisturizer: Nars Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30
This hydrating foundation leaves a natural finish for a “no makeup” makeup look. I love that it’s filled with Vitamin C and is oil free, unlike most tinted moisturizers.
Medium Coverage: Shiseido Syncro Skin Radiant Lifting Foundation
With a huge range of shades, you’re sure to find your favorite. Plus, it’s full of light-reflecting pigment to provide a bright, visibly “lifted” and smooth appearance.
Full Coverage: Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Foundation
All the power with none of the cake. This stay-all-day, full-coverage foundation is sure to keep up with you.
Cushion: Chantecaille Future Skin Cushion Foundation
Luminous and comes with a refill, so it’s like getting two for one. As an added bonus, it’s full of smoothing, anti-pollution ingredients that blur imperfections while protecting your skin.
Stick Foundation: Westman Atelier Vital Skin Foundation Stick
Clean, mighty, and portable. Looks and feels like second skin.
Powder Foundation: Lancôme Dual Finish Powder Foundation
Super finely milled for a delicate touch. Can be a sheer to fuller coverage and can be applied wet or dry.
Find them all here.
PHONE A FRIEND
Insight and beauty inspiration from my favorite people in the industry
Matin, makeup artist, non-toxic beauty and human rights activist, and former molecular biologist (@itsmatin)
I’ve been a huge fan of Matin’s work for longer than I’ve been a makeup artist, and have bought products just on the rumor that he was into them. Knowing him hasn’t changed that—if Matin has something in his kit, I definitely want it (and the Matin seal of approval has never let me down). Besides being an incredible artist, he is the loveliest human.
Q: What are some beauty items you can’t live without ?
A: As far as skincare I can’t be without East 29th Vital Serum, Eisenberg Firming Remodelling Mask, 111SKIN Celestial Black Diamond Day Cream Light, and Retrouvé Eye Concentrate and serums and moisturizers. For the neck, nothing compares to Orlane B21 Extraordinaire Neck & Decollete creams.
Q: What inspires you at work?
A: Kindness and trust in clients and from the client has become rare, but it makes for a beautiful work environment that can be collaborative and inspiring.
Q: What’s your favorite kind of look to do at work?
A: Effortlessness takes work. It’s tricky, but I think it’s something that I kept learning working with masters in their crafts.