Step 2 of My Makeup Process: Face, Part B – Concealer
Plus, My Top Picks for Valentine’s Day!
Now that Fashion Week is over (in New York, anyway), we are back to our regularly scheduled programming. Picking up where we left off after Skincare and Foundation (catch up on those steps here and here), we are now ready to finish face makeup with concealer. Next week, we’ll cover Part 3: Eyes, including how to build a five-minute eye routine!
All hands on deck for the Alice + Olivia Fall/Winter 2023 collection shoot for Vogue Runway last week
IN THE CHAIR
Behind-the-scenes techniques to enhance your makeup routine
Step 2: Face, Part B – Concealer
I’m occasionally asked for my “desert island” product (i.e. the one product I’d take above all others). I hate that question because I could never choose just one; I need at least five. One of those five, however, would definitely be a great concealer. Like foundation, there are several formulas that each have different uses, so it’s important to choose the right type of concealer for the job. These jobs include but aren’t limited to concealing texture, discoloration, and darkness.
Texture
Texture can be a really tricky thing to correct. I interestingly learned one of my favorite ways to address depressed texture from a male client many years ago. I won’t tell you who it was, but he had a small acne scar on his forehead—just one little spot that really bothered him, which I definitely relate to (after all, who doesn’t have something they notice and dislike, and yet it’s seemingly invisible to everyone else… I love that a little makeup can help us fix those things and feel more confident). To correct this issue, I used an eyeliner brush to place a small amount of concealer that was slightly lighter than his skin tone directly into the depressed area (not enough to fill the scar, but just enough to cover its surface area) in order to highlight the area slightly, catching the light and lifting the scar visually so that the gentleman’s forehead appeared to be all the same plane. To achieve something like this, I highly recommend a concealer pallet with at least two shades. I love the Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Concealer Duo Stick. It comes with the aforementioned two shades for a customizable concealing experience.
Discoloration
Unlike with a pockmark, scar, etc., highlighting a non-depressed discolored problem spot isn’t the way to go. For areas on the face like the dreaded chin pimple, melasma, or other discolorations, I highly recommend using a creamy concealer that matches your skin tone exactly. Choose a formula with a satiny natural finish for the ultimate camouflage. I love the NARS Soft Matte Complete Concealer or the Clé de Peau Concealer Stick if you’re feeling extra fancy. They come in many colors and look exactly like skin once applied. Stipple this concealer on the affected area with a domed, tightly packed concealer brush like IT Cosmetics Heavenly Luxe Concealer Brush. Fluffy brushes like this one work with your concealer like a giant eraser, applying product densely but leaving soft, undetectable edges. If there’s a particularly tough smaller spot (such as acne), go in with a long, thin eyeliner brush. Seems strange, but pro tip: you can use any makeup brush anywhere you want—there really are no rules! Dot the tough spot with your creamy concealer, then touch the area with your fingertip (the warmth of your finger slightly melts the concealer to create a seamless blend) and watch it disappear in the blink of an eye.
Darkness
If you’re like me, you don’t get as much sleep as you should and your face might give you away via dark under-eye circles. But just because you’re tired doesn’t mean you have to wear that on your face all day: enter liquid concealer. I love a light-reflecting, moisturizing formula for under eyes like the Charlotte Tilbury Beautiful Skin Radiant Concealer. It stays put and doesn’t crease. When concealing under the eyes, a little bit goes a long way, and you don’t need to put it everywhere—concentrate on the area from under your tear duct to about a quarter of the way outward, as well as directly under the outer corner of your eye. Either apply with the wand of your liquid concealer of choice (mine is the Charlotte Tilbury mentioned above) or use the narrow, flat end of the IT Cosmetics concealer brush for precision application. Next, blend, either with your finger or with the domed, fluffy side of the IT Cosmetics concealer brush (or any fluffy brush of your choosing). Limiting the concealer to just the edges of your eye will make it less noticeable, giving you a bright, “I totally slept” look while keeping the concealer you used to get there a secret. After all, who doesn’t love a beauty secret?
FROM THE KIT
The products and trends worth knowing about now
My Top 5 Picks for Valentine’s Day
While everyone else is focused on roses and chocolate (not that I have anything against either of those things), I vote you gift yourself, someone you love, or your Galentine one of these instead. Each is highly luxe and will last longer than any heart-shaped box.
Chantecaille Sheer Glow Rose Face Tint
This is a new three-in-one product and I’m obsessed with it. It’s 1) a brightening primer when applied all over the face under makeup, 2) a soft pink highlighter when applied to the high points of the face post-foundation, and 3) an extra-beautifying barrier that’s full of peptides and other anti-pollution, hydrating ingredients.
Lilfox Pink Tonka + Yuzu Celestial Salt Soak
If I could take a bath with this soak every day I would. It’s a wondrous mix of pink Himalayan salt, powdered coconut milk, and an intoxicating blend of tonka, yuzu, cyprus, and cedar. You or your loved one will soak your way to the most relaxed state you’ve ever experienced. Several of my Galentines will be getting this.
Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour
There’s lipstick and then there’s Chanel lipstick. I love this luminous matte formula. It’s buildable yet light and comes in so many colors. I particularly love Inspirante—it’s a magical blend of red, berry, and pink. It’s hard to exactly nail down in a good way, adding a nice je ne sais quoi to your look.
Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Matt Beauty Blush Wand
Love a liquid blush! This one has a built-in sponge applicator for easy use and no mess. Plus it’s matte, so it looks good on anyone at any age, and it has bold color payoff for any flirting you may get up to.
Wellinsulated Performance Mini Travel Case in Rose Gold
These bags are the chicest makeup accessory–I have every single size and love them all. That said, the Performance Mini case comes in a gorgeous rose gold that can absolutely double as a clutch for a night out.
PHONE A FRIEND
Insight and beauty inspiration from my favorite people in the industry
Suzy Gerstein (@suzygerstein), New York City-based makeup artist, green beauty enthusiast, and dear friend I always text for new product intel
Q: What are some beauty items you can’t live without?
Skincare Tool
If I have 10 minutes to get out the door, I’d rather spend it on making my skin look alive and vibrant with good skincare than on piling on the makeup. I swear by the ZIIP home microcurrent device. Any time I have an event or even am just feeling blah, I do the eight-minute Instant Gratification treatment on the app and feel so much more vibrant and lifted. I love that you download the app and ZIIP right along with ZIIP founder Melanie Simon, so there’s zero guesswork. It’s like being in a workout class for your face. When I go straight to the school run or dinner after a long shoot, even after having done it for just five minutes, I get “mom-pliments” on my glowing skin.
Skincare
Bioeffect EGF Serum and PillowtalkDerm mask and moisturizer.
Blush
I’m currently obsessed with Phytosurgence Skin Spark Blushes as is every friend I’ve recommended them to. Something about the way the texture melts into your skin and the tones… I cannot get enough. The shade Inferno makes me look like I’ve had more sleep than I actually have (because who gets enough sleep really)? I am also loving the Violette_FR Bisou Blushes—Inès is a perfect baby pink.
Brow
The NYX Lift & Snatch Brow Tint Pen is another makeup bag essential. The fine tip and dialed-back level of pigment (compared to say say a liquid liner) lend themselves perfectly to adding structure to my face without giving too much power to my naturally dark brows. A couple of strokes to lift the arch slightly and fill in a few gaps and I’m a new woman.
Lip Balm
I’ve been reaching for my Ouli’s Ointment Balm and Westman Atelier’s Squeaky Clean Liquid Lip Balm lately. Lanolips 101 is another great one for when your lips are very chapped.
Lashes
I love the lash curler my friend Troy Surratt created.
Q: What inspires you at work?
I love the teamwork aspect of creative collaborations and how we play off each others’ energy and inspiration. It might be the mood of a collection, the palette that the stylist shows me, a dress my client is going to wear on the red carpet, references from the photographer, or something as small as a beaded detail on a shoe. I also love to take photos and find a lot of inspiration in people-watching, nature, and NYC.
Q: What’s your favorite kind of makeup look?
I am constantly honing a look that is a balance of elements—something strong with something soft. I love that duality. For example, a sharply drawn red lip with a more hazy, watercolor eye. Matte elements balanced by shiny ones. I love perfecting a brow and watching what it can do to a face.
I come from a fashion background where oftentimes as assistants we were told to skip foundation altogether, so I think because of that I use as little base product as possible and take pride in making the skin look like skin. I also love the confidence boost I can give my clients by taking extra time to perfect their skin.
Q: Do you have a favorite concealer for yourself?
The Sisley Paris Phyto-Cernes Éclat Eye Concealer. Also the Kulfi concealer and, for top-offs, the Clinique pen concealer.
Q: Do you have a favorite way to apply concealer?
Start with hydrated skin. I love to prep with an eye mask—111Skin and BioEffect make my current favorites. If you can, do a thick eye cream like the Ambrosia Immortalis The Eye Complex by Lilfox the night before—that is ideal so that you have the moisture and plumped effect without too much slip.
Now, this isn’t revolutionary, but for concealer, I tend to think about the areas under the eyes that move and skip applying concealer there—smile lines, creases, etc. Too much product there will just end up settling. I bow my chin down to get a sense of where the shadowed areas are and paint a thin layer of product right into the shadow (usually it’s in the hollow at the inner, and sometimes outer, corner of the eye) then pat it in with a ring finger or buff it in with one of those cool new brushes that looks like a finger (Nars, Pat McGrath, and Rare Beauty all make them). I add another thin layer if needed.
I often add more blush higher up on the cheek—it’s a great way to distract from an undereye circle without fighting it so hard. I also love those Westman Atelier Lit Up Highlighter Sticks (which I carry in the mini sizes) for adding radiance around the eyes. Nectar—a warm peach champagne—is my favorite. Finish with a tiny amount of powder or use a blotting paper, and then I always mist—the Neroli-infused Bitter Orange Toning Mist from Lilfox is absolutely delightful.